Shirt! Holes!

[parasitegirl]

My frustration with off-the-rack button down shirts is about what it is to be a female in a female body trying to like, or at least be a good friend, my body. It's about feeling like my body shape doesn't conform...just doesn't.

It's also about liking myself and my body. I don't want to be trapped in ill-fitting clothing. I don't want to look down and ask "who am I , what am I doing in this?" It's about not wanting temporary clothing that can't stay in good shape and isn't built for mending.

That's why making my own button-up shirts...even on day 3 of sewing and modifying muslins...still seems like a rational solution.

In retrospect the more rational solution would have been: sew a simple top...because I've only made 3 structured tops for dance (and a bunch of halter tops) and those invoked luck and magic and moments I cannot replicate. I've put sleeves in something once and they scare me and I believe that necromancy is involved in understanding sleeves.

No. I had to go FULL BUTTON DOWN.

Because I believe if I can make this, all other top permutations will be easy-peasy.

I've made my first collar. I know what a placket is now and how absurd it is that Sew U thought a few lines of instruction and an illustration would allow me to insert a continuous placket! House placket, believe not in the existence of other plackets for beginners.

I have only passing familiarity with making button holes...but I will master it.

Last night I set a sleeve. It went in just fine. I then moved my arm and the illusion of a workable shirt was gone.

Prior to last night I thought that sleeve holes just needed to allow your arm out. Hole done, arm free. Ok! I understand, only now, that they must be coddled and perfected.

You have to caress the fabric gently until it is lays down in full submission and then you pin it. Pin that sucker! Is it after midnight? Are you alone? Do you risk pinning your own flesh because you don't have a dress form of your dimensions made? Suck it up! Blood makes it the shirt sew!

I now know that most commercial patterns and off the rack clothing err on the side of arm holes that are cut too deep below the armpits and that this is an aggression that enrages your shirt sleeves into taking your breasts hostage if you dream of lifting your arms.

I'm looking at a lot of armpits and sleeve holes on the train.

In all of this I read many blogs suggesting that arm hole placement can be tricky and that it is easier to copy an existing shirt you have that fits.

I have about 4 non-stretch shirts with sleeves. I put each one on and moved my arms around. I understood now why I only wear them in summer, open, over t-shirts or tank tops. I own no non-stretch shirts with sleeves that actually fit me.

I understood that the journey I am on is a hero's journey.

This morning, with an old futon cover that no lingers fits any futon I own...I made a lovely armhole.




It resembles the original pattern armhole only in the fact that it contains an absence of fabric through which my arm may freely pass.

When I get home I will mark the seams and rip this apart to fashion my latest front/back pattern.



fabric I want to use...but first I must make business stuff.

Comments

[mekyria.livejournal.com]

Go you! One more tip about armholes and sleeves: it's a delicate balance between the shape of the armhole and the extra amount of ease in the sleeve cap. The extra amount of ease in the cap is made by sewing a loose running stitch along the upper back, slightly pulling the threads, then adding the sleeve to the armhole. It creates the illusion that the fabric of the sleeve is sewn flt, creating tiny pleats along the upper edge/back of the sleeve to allow for movement.

Don't worry, you'll get there. If you need another challenge after the shirts, try making a fitted jacket 😄

[beafarhana.livejournal.com]

Courage, mon brave! Armholes have so far not struck my own horizon - I've got a go-to top with raglan sleeves, and that has served me well, but actual set in sleeves, I haven't done for about 25 years, back when I knew nothing and just sewed things regardless. The more I find out about sewing technique now, the scarier things are.

And I would TOTALLY be wearing that black & white spex print for work. Stealth funwear.

[alonewiththemoon]

I greatly admire your determination on figuring out the sleeves and armholes issues. The PJs I made this winter have sleeves, and even after successfully making one pair, the second pair presented a complete mystery all over again when I got to attaching the sleeves!

[bedlam-n-bedlah.livejournal.com]

I've only done sleeves a few times (although I did learn the proper way in sewing class) and that was on stretch fabric. Which got me thinking...I wonder if you could find a cotton/spandex blend that has a bit of stretch in it. Several of my button ups have this and it makes a huge difference in how comfortable the shirts are. It might be easier to see too!

[bedlam-n-bedlah.livejournal.com]

Sew not see. Lol

[sageincave.livejournal.com]

Apparently Chanel was always setting her armholes higher...sounds like you're on the right track!

[suzycat.livejournal.com]

Makes sense. I have very small shoulders for my size and one of my enduring memories of childhood is standing with my arm extended while Mum cut the excess off around the armholes. It felt quite nice actually.

[auryn31.livejournal.com]

You are a brave warrior and I am excited for your journey. Only sleeves I've worked with were with stretchy knit fabric. Sleeve holes are always the bane of my existence because they are indeed always too huge unless they are petite sizing.

[replyhazy.livejournal.com]

You are inspiring!

[suzycat.livejournal.com]

Well done! It's been a fair few years since I made anything nonstretch. I might actually put sleeves in backwards on occasion. NOONECARES.

So much of what you are describing, however, reminds me of sewing in my teens, except we never adjusted patterns, just did it on the body. What you are doing is MUCH more sensible.

In other news, I grew up calling those button UP shirts. Weird eh!

[misa1.livejournal.com]

I need to get more comfortable with buttons and collars. I want to make some button-up pajama sets like Nick and Nora used to make. The pants are great, but I keep putting it off because I don't want to face the shirts.